How to Replace Your GE Washer’s Dispenser Seal

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Front-loading washers are more susceptible to leaks than their top-loading counterparts. If you have a leak at the front of your machine, there’s a lot of different parts that could be at fault. Once you know the leak isn’t coming from a drain seal, check the dispenser seal. This rubber ring sits between the dispenser fitting and the dispenser tube that connects to the washer tub. If this part is broken, order replacement part #WH41X10119 for a new GE washer dispenser seal. Then follow these five steps.

1. Unplug the washer.

Whenever you’re making a repair to an appliance, especially if you have to dismantle the machine, unplug it first. This keeps you and the appliance safe.

2. Disassemble the washer.

The dispenser seal is behind the front access panel. But there are a lot of parts you have to remove before you can detach that panel. Follow these instructions to do it.

First, move your machine as far from the back wall as you can without stretching or detaching the drain and water supply lines. While you don’t really need to access the back of the machine, you need some clearance to remove the top access panel.

Now you can remove the top access panel. Remove the screws along the back and back of the panel. Slide it toward the rear of the machine and out of the front lip. Also, remove the front trim by releasing it from the locking tabs. Pull the top panel free and set it aside.

Next, remove the detergent drawer. Open and depress the locking tab in the back, and set the drawer side. Then remove the screw in the housing. This loosens the control panel.

After that, take off the four screws on the back of the control panel. Pry the control panel up off the two top locking tabs. Also, depress two locking tabs near the bottom. In order to reach them, you have to reach through the top of the machine.

Tilt the panel down without moving it away from the machine. Disconnect the wire harnesses. Each of them is a different size, so you don’t have to worry about mixing them up during reassembly. But if you want an extra guarantee, take a picture of the wiring before you start. Most of them will come free by hand, but use a flathead screwdriver to pry the harnesses apart if necessary.

Once the control panel is completely disconnected, set it aside.

Remove the front access panel. Loosen the screws and the bottom of the lower access panel, and then set it aside.

After that, open the door and uninstall the door switch. Start by loosening the two screws that hold the switch in place. To pull it deeper into the machine, you have to partially uninstall the boot seal. Pry up the lip of the boot seal and remove the wire clamp. Do this by sliding your flathead screwdriver under the spring and running the tool around to push the clamp out of position. Remove the boot seal from the next groove and push the material inside the tub. Push the switch mechanism deeper into the cavity.

Now you can finally remove the top front access panel by loosening the screws at top and bottom. Lean against it as you’re unscrewing it to hold the panel in place. To remove the panel, tilt the bottom edge up and pry the whole thing off the locking tabs. Set it aside.

3. Remove the old dispenser seal.

Locate the dispenser tube in the top left corner. This is the white plastic tube that runs from the corner to the tub Remove the end at the top corner by hand by depressing the tab at the bottom and pulling it out. Shift it out of the way. Pull off the black dispenser seal that is revealed.

4. Install the new dispenser seal.

Push the new dispenser seal around the dispenser fitting. Stretch it so it fits smoothly around the outer edge of the fitting and sits smoothly in place. Make sure the part is right up against the edge of the fitting but doesn’t hang over it.Then grab the top corner of the white dispenser tube. Shift it over and press the opening over the new seal. Make sure the tube is oriented so the bottom of the tub clicks into the lock. 

5. Reassemble the washer.

Replace the upper front access panel first. Make sure it hangs onto mounting tabs on the sides, but don’t let the tabs support the weight. Hold it as you resecure the six screws at the top and bottom.

Next, reassemble the door. Reach behind the right side of the seal and push the door switch mechanism through the cutout. Replace the two screws to secure it in place, and push the boot seal back into the groove around the edge of the door. Make sure it’s securely in place and doesn’t have wrinkles or loose spots. After that, reattach the clamp. Orient the spring at the bottom and run the clamp wire under the boot seal, working clockwise. Go as far around the tub as you can by hand. Once the seal is too tight, you need to stretch the clamp. Do this by grabbing the right side of the spring with pliers and stretching it out. Then finish pressing the clamp in place around the rest of the circle. Make sure the clamp isn’t pinching the boot seal, and press the final edge of the seal into place in the outermost lip around the clamp. Carefully tug on the boot seal to make sure it doesn’t shift. Then you can shut the door.

Reattach the lower access panel. For this part, all you need to do is slide it up into the groove of the top front access panel and reattach the screws.

Then reinstall the control panel. Hold the control panel next to the top of the machine like it was positioned when you were removing the wires. Then start connecting the wire harnesses. None of the harnesses have the same shape, so you don’t have to worry about attaching harnesses the wrong way. But you can use the picture you took earlier as a guide.

Once all the wires are reconnected, tilt the panel up so it’s flush against the cavity. Make sure the two locking tabs in the bottom right corner line up. then snap it into place. Reattach the screw in the dispenser housing that holds the panel against the frame. Also, push the detergent drawer back into the housing. Lastly, retighten the four screws holding the control panel to the frame from the back. After that, reattach the top access panel. Before you start, locate the white circular pins, one on each side of the frame. These fit into the cutouts on the edge of the top panel so when you slide it forward, it locks into place. Lay the top panel down on the machine and make sure the circles fit into the cutouts so the panel lays flat.

Put the trim back at the front of the top panel by pressing the three locking tabs into the cutouts. Press it firmly in place and then slide the top access panel fully into position. Retighten all six screws. Push the washer back into position against the wall and plug it in to start a leak-free cycle.

If you have more appliance repair tasks on your to-do list, browse our repair guides at Appliance Express here. If we don’t have the specific guide you’re looking for, call our team for expert assistance.

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